Day 123

Day 123. Sat31st July.
Giardino di Boboli.

Back to the Pitti palace for the 111acre Boboli gardens, built in a former quarry and transformed into the back garden of the Medici’s. The highly annoying map that accompanies the €10 entry shows the layout but identifies none of the features. Just as well as few of them are accessible to the paying public. The beautiful horticultural garden can be tantalisingly glimpsed through locked gates. The glory of the garden, The Fountain of the Ocean by Giambologna (Based on the island retreat at Villa Adriana, remember day 100?) is not working and closed but gloriously visible from a distance. What the hell have we paid for here?
We have the good fortune to make our way to the top of the garden (quite a climb) and the Museo delle Porcellane. A helpful attendant shows us where all the features are and recommends the Giardino Bardini, out of the Boboli and 100m down a hill. An utterly charming garden with a fascinating outdoor exhibition of hauntingly enigmatic sculptures by Giuseppe Gavazzi.
We have tea in the loggia and drink in the panorama over the river Arno, across the terracotta roofs of Florence to the dark green cypress clad hills beyond, the impossibly blue skies and prettiest fluffy white white clouds.
Have a long chat to our beloved Hillary on the phone and wish she was here." I aint seen no egg."

Moisturise!!!!

Part of the Neptune Fountain.

Giardino Bardini.

Day122

Day 122. Fri30th July
Rain Rain Rain.

The skies thundered all day and Molly stuck to us like glue. The rain when it came was gentle and refreshing though the lightning flashes in the darkening skies promised much more. An ideal day to catch up with the bog and download our photos. Its so cool we need our duvet for the fist time in months. Is it me or is it cooler today.

Day 121

Day 121.Thursday29th July
Pitti Palace.

A hideous, enormous pile the colour of sun dried cowpats, the Pitti turns out to be hugely enjoyable. Were off to a bad start, south of the river (even Florentines call the area “over there”) it’s a long walk from the car park and after climbing the stairs in the unbearable heat I have an attack of heat stroke. Running wet and cold and clammy to the touch it takes me an hour to recover. The first few galleries are so so, so when we arrive in the larger main gallery we are unprepared for the glories that await. Raphael, Rubens, Titian, Canova and Caravaggio to name but a few. Hideously guilded, over decorated rooms but walls running with the most ravishing paintings.
The gallery on the next floor (the place is vast) has a chronological display of Italian art from the mid 18th C onwards and we are nourished by the discovery of brilliant artists we have never heard of.
During our visit the sky's fill with clouds and its starts to rain, a gentle patter to start with. The wind builds and we are engulfed in the most spectacular rainstorm. Windows blow in, curtains fly and pictures rattle in their frames. Sleepy attendants transform before our eyes wrestling with widows, shutters and retrieving the curtains from the celings. The outer courtyard becomes a spontaneous Niagara and we wonder how on earth we will get back to the car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORc-JcEpHUU

Then, its over, and we trot to the car in gleaming clean streets breathing delicious cool air. Napoleon.

Day 120

Day 120.Wed 28th July
Giardino Villa Gamberaia.

Frustrated by our last attempt to visit a garden that no longer exists we are extra keen to find this one, located in the Chianti hills overlooking Florence. The approach is heartstoppingly tight. The two-way road is so narrow in places we have to flatten the wing mirrors, breathe in and pray we meet no oncoming vehicles. Up the walled side of the Villa round a tight right turn that takes three attempts to negotiate. Finally down an even tighter short decent through a narrow tunnel under the garden itself. After three k of exclaiming “surely not” we have arrived. Entry though an avenue of cypresses the terrace of the house affords exceptional panoramas of Florence. Famed for it’s small but perfectly formed proportioned we have the place to ourselves for an hour. Honestly it’s a bit past its best and though very peaceful, some areas are the wrong side of gentile decay. The rave reviews this garden receives are from people staying in the villa and its at it best viewed from the first floor. As a paying visitor €12.00(more than the Uffizi)this is not a view we are afforded. Head into Florence to our favourite eating hole (Bolvadino) for another scrumptious lunch.

Great views over Florence.

Day 119.

Day 119. Tuesday 27th July.
Crash.

A slow start, heading for the supermarket, just about to drive out of the site when the gardeners truck reverses out of nowhere into our car. It had to happen sometime, you know what I think about Italian driving. Fortunately it was right in front of the reception so they are all apologies and the relevant insurance forms are duly signed. We manage to glue and tape the rear indicator array back together and with a couple of new bulbs were as good as new. Apart from the dent? Our pristine car heads the way of the boggler.

Day 118.

Day 118. Mon 26th July.
Relax, don’t do it.

More blazing sunshine, the local vino (chianti) is devine, thank god for the pool.

Walkies?

Day117

Day 117. Sun 25th July.
Uffitzi.

The Uffizi (the office) claims to be the worlds finest picture gallery and who are we to disagree.
Even early Sunday morning it’s a crush, marvellous though they may be, its like trying to view paintings in a rugby scrum. The Botticelli room should be one of the glories of the collection, its gloomy and heaving.
You have to bin your water in the entrance, and they provide no drinking water inside. The café charges and eye watering €4.50 for coffee that’s €1 anywhere else. This is the height of summer so unless you want to dehydrate you just have to pay. The toilets are a trek and inadequate.
It’s a bloody AWFULL place to visit. This place earns millions and they dont give a shit about the quality of the visitor experience.
The day is rescued by a great lunch in Baldovinos, down by the side of Santa Croce. Great food, generous portions and reasonable.
Ponte Vecchio.
Uffitzi

Michelangelos David.