Day 114

Day 114. Thursday22nd July.
Mazzolia and Volterra.

Today we enjoy an hour and a half’s drive through the justifiably famed Tuscan countryside, in search of a dry herb garden that closed three years ago.! A rather harem scarum wiggle along dirt tracks finds us in the miniscule heart of Mazzolia. Roads so narrow a man painting his windows had to move his ladder so we could scrape by. After an hours fruitless searching, hunger drives us to the hill town of Voterra.
Its medieval winding and picturesque streets are teeming with tourists but we are really only interested in finding a great place to eat. The Rough Guide comes up trumps. The area is famed for its hunting (roadside signs warn of hunting dogs) and our menu is peppered with Deer, Wild boar and Rabbit. Having polished off steaming platefuls of Pinky and Perkys near relations, Bamby and Peter Rabbit we are revived enough to seek out the Tourist office where we discover the details of why we couldn’t locate the garden.
After a scenic drive home Molly is delighted to see us. We have taken to filling doggy bags with the bones from our lunches and today’s was an especial treat.
A load of old cobbles.
More lurking.

Another bloody Tuscan hilldown.

Day 113

Day 113. Wed 21st July.
Sienna; giorno due.

Back into Sienna for the Baptistery and Crypt of the Duomo. Hardly worth the cost of the ticket, we did them both in about 20 mins. Leaving us plenty of time to relax (for a City it’s a very relaxing place) soak up the atmosphere in the Campo and people watch. The Museo Civico in the Palazzo Comunnale is a series of grand rooms with enchanting secular frescoes. Great views over the city to the countryside beyond. Lunch at a very smart restaurant just below the Duomo. Delicious contemporary Tuscan cuisine that Andy loved so much he left them his credit card so they could all book holidays with it.
Back in the evening to collect the credit card and Molly came with us to tour the city and join in the passegiata.
This is how Andy relaxes, Honest.
Too hot for hair.

Duomo Interior.

The library.

Day 112

Day 112. Tuesday 20th July
Ah Sienna.

First trip into Sienna. We immediately get why so many people love the place. Easy and relaxed, both with itself and to explore. What a beautiful city. Most of the medieval centre is pedestrianized and it’s so gorgeous you could just wander all day. Took in the jewel casket that is the Duomo, The library is a gem. The Museo dell’Opera Metropolitana has a grand title and so so contents, though it is the entry to the rather scary Panorama dal Facciatone. A very high narrow walkway with views over the city. I left this one to Andy, as claustrophobic, narrow spiral stairways in 35o heat are NOT my thing. A trot round the Campo (venue of the famous Pallio horserace) and the Fonte Gaia (yes gay fountain). Pacing ourselves because of the heat we only do half a day, have lunch and head back to the pool.
The Campo.
Duomo.

Gay fountain(it is now)

Aqua minerale naturale.

Day111

Day 111. Mon 19th July
Blog slog.

Despite my best intentions I’m slipping behind with the blog again. Make a concerted effort to catch up. Andy’s busy with housework and in the afternoon we chill by the 30m pool.

Oak leaves on the awning.
Breakfast.

Day110

Day 110.Sun 18th July
Sienna.

Start the day with another rollicking from our mini hostess as we were leaving. She was furious we were setting off at 7.30am, when most people were still abed. Bizarre for a site where the bins are emptied (noisily) at 6am EVERY DAY, so we sent her off with a flee in her ear. It was quite a squeeze.
Lovely easy journey the 150k to Sienna and arrived by 10.30am in our new home Camping Colleverdi.
Very steep site, 2k from the city, but we have a shady spot near the pool (hugh) and the showers and its pretty quiet. There is lots of room for our girl to romp.Spent the rest of the day setting up and chilling. Lots of friends have said Sienna is their favourite places in Italy so were looking forward to exploring.


The latest favorite toy.
Cool pool.

Day 109

Day 109. Sat 17th July
Orvieto.

Today’s destination is the medieval hill town of Orvieto and its famed Duomo. The car park has a very civilised run of escalators, through blissfully cool, solid rock, up to the town, we love it already.
The façade of the Duomo is a sparkling dizzying riot of decorative insanity. It shouldn’t work but somehow it’s a delight. The spectacular monochrome marble interior is somewhat restrained till you get to the Last Judgment fresco cycle in a side chapel(no pictures). Energetic, gory and gloriously lurid with more bare buttocks than ought to be allowed in a house of god.
Lunch was a disappointment; I had to send my chicken back, it was so dry. The disappointment was ameliorated by my sense of achievement at complaining in Italiano and getting it taken off the bill. Even Andy was impressed.
Classic Umbrian hill town.
The Facade.
Spiraling out of control.

This is my Dry Chicken face.

Day 108

Day 108.Fri 16th July
Assisi: round 2. ding ding

Learning from our earlier mistake and nervous to avoid a repeat performance, we make a very early start for Assisi.
It’s almost cool at 30oC when we climb the hill and walk through the town to the Basilica. The early bird gets the worm and we enjoy the famous Giotto frescoes in an almost empty space. Absolutely no photography so you will just have to go. The lower church is a real gem and a visit to the saint’s tomb proves especially moving. Always the most inspiring of catholic saints Frances has had an enduring influence. The fist great humanist and the first to point out the divine inspiration of the natural world and its connectedness to our essential humanity. He was by all accounts a cheerful, charming, witty and eloquent man.
We spend some quiet time meditating in the dark space, contemplating absent friends and relatives.
Hold them close my darlings, when they are gone, its forever.
In the immortal words of James Taylor.
“Shower the people you love with love, show them the way you feel”
Back into the centre for a visit to the local art gallery, they have some beautiful frescoes, removed from churches and it’s good to get a close up. Find a wonderful restaurant for lunch and two happy hours later waddle back to the car for the drive home.
Frescoe.
Half way up.
In front of the Basilica.